Day 1 - Darwin
You feel the heat and humidity hit you the minute you step off the
plane. Even though it’s expected, the intensity at nearly midnight comes
as a bit of a surprise. But it’s welcome. That balmy, tropical smell
reminds me of Bali and Port Douglas – places that I’ve loved. There’s a
sense of coming home for me when I visit the tropics which is strange
given that Sydney was my birthplace and the city that I spent most of my
youth in before my parents escaped to Tasmania for a quieter life. Over
thirty years living in southern states gives me no right to consider
anywhere balmy my own – yet that sense of homecoming that I can’t
explain is almost tangible for me.
The wide streets are lined with palm trees only just visible in the
dark. I can’t hear the leaves slapping together but I can imagine the
sound which for me is the sound of the tropics.
Moonshadow Villas are
located near the Gardens. They are luxurious and Balinese style
apartments – this is where I spend my first two nights. It’s quiet and
close enough to the city to walk.
It’s almost 2am my time before I make it to bed. It’s beautifully
comfortable but I’m restless in a new place and uncertain about leaving
air conditioning on all night and somewhat confused at the offer of a
heavy doona as the only bedding other than sheets. I can’t say my sleep
was refreshing but it’s enough.
It’s overcast but hot already by early morning. I review the maps to
work out where I should begin my exploration. I decide on the Botanic
Gardens, Mindil Beach and Cullen Bay.
The Gardens are serene. There’s some evidence of the cyclone that hit a
week or so ago but the overwhelming impact is of lushness and green.
It’s a stark contrast to my own dusty back garden where nearly
everything has a parched and withered look about it. The carpet of grass
here is so thick and inviting. I’m tempted to go back to collect a book
and a picnic rug to spend my morning lying under the trees.
Mindil Beach is deserted. I stroll along the wide flat bed of sand
toward Cullen Bay and contemplate the frustration of living by a sea you
can’t swim in during summer. The box jelly fish and the crocodiles have
claimed it their own. (Later I find out that the sea temperature at this
time of year is over 30 degrees so there’s nothing refreshing about
swimming in this part of the ocean).
Cullen Bay is quiet too. I find marinas inviting places, having grown up
on boats. I imagine the wharf restaurants are busy on weekends and
during the middle of the year when a heavy tourist trade is drawn to the
north.
It’s sultry now. The sun is mostly covered by cloud and there’s a subtle
threat of rain. This steamy climate is one of things that I find
alluring about Darwin. It’s the antithesis of the long drought we have
experienced down south that has reminded all of us how vulnerable this
country is. It feels like a reprieve to be in this balmy oasis where the
lushness of the vegetation offers hope that one day we’ll see an
abundance of rain again at home.
I’m starting to tire by the time I reach the city.
When I reach the mall in Smith St my feet are starting to feel sore.
I’ve been walking almost two hours. Coffee and water are truly welcome.
I spend a leisurely afternoon swimming, reading and writing before
returning to the city for a
walking tour with Steve, who has an
extensive and interesting knowledge of Darwin’s history. Domonique from
Tourism NT joins us and the three of us make our way along the Esplanade
and through Bicentennial Park. Steve points out landmarks and tells us
about the events that have devastated this city in the past sixty years.
It’s a city that has tenacity…it’s been dealt some serious blows. If it
can survive being bombed in World War II and Cyclone Tracey which left
only 400 houses intact, it can survive anything.
Dinner is at
Hanuman. The restaurant is divided into two sections – one
essentially a wide verandah with timber floors and a vastly high
ceiling. The rafters that sit midway support silver metal fans and
downlights suspended on wires. The walls are chocolate brown and the
lighting soft creates a warmth that is enhanced by the tasteful but
minimal artworks. Two ornamental timber temples, mounted on pedestals
break up the centre of the room surprisingly well. The inside space is a
little less charismatic. The theme of chocolate is continued but the
panel of blue glass around the bar seems overly bright. Coupled with the
air conditioning, it takes away the balmy tropical mood. I’m grateful
for the reservation outside.
The food is magnificent – better than I’ve eaten in any Thai restaurant
in Melbourne and the portions are generous. Kellie, my dinner companion,
is an engaging and lively conversationalist and her travel stories
inspire me to visit some of the places she talks about. At the end of
the night, I feel that I’ve made a friend and I reflect that so far
every person I’ve met in this town is relaxed and friendly.
|
Moonshadow Villas,
Darwin |
